Keeping it Real. The Authentic Charm of St Martin de Castillon

Saint-Martin-de-Castillon, nestled about five miles east of our hometown Apt, is a charming hilltop village that offers one of the finest views of the Mourre Nègre and the Grand Luberon mountain range. Just before sunset, the shifting shadows and golden hues dancing across the mountains never cease to fascinate me. So yes, if nothing else, come here for the view.

Now, Saint-Martin isn’t the most picturesque village in the region - it’s not as polished as Bonnieux or as postcard-perfect as Gordes. But that’s precisely why we love it. With hardly any tourists passing through, it has retained an authenticity that’s rare to find in Provence these days.

If you stop by the village bar, you’ll enjoy a glass of local wine for just €3, a stark contrast to the €6-8 you’d pay in Gordes or Bonnieux. There’s nothing trendy about the terrace - no curated ‘faux antique’ décor like in Lourmarin or Ménerbes - just a simple, welcoming space where locals gather over a coffee or an apéritif.

By late afternoon, a game of pétanque often kicks off on the pitch next to the bar. Watching the lively banter and careful throws is as much a part of the experience as the village itself.

And then there’s one of Saint-Martin’s quirkiest little perks - its village swimming pool. Tucked away like a private garden, it feels like stepping into someone’s home. For just a few euros, you can drop off the kids for the afternoon while you sip a chilled glass of rosé at the bar next door. Now that’s what I call convenience!

One of my favourite things about Saint-Martin-de-Castillon is its mighty village shop. Open seven days a week, often until 8 PM, it stocks just about everything you could need. My family finds it hilarious that I’d rather drive up here for basic groceries than head to the supermarket in Apt - but there’s a reason for that.

This shop is a celebration of local produce. The bread is made by a village baker, the goat’s cheese comes from a nearby farm, the tomatoes are as fresh as they come, and the shelves are stocked with local jams and wines. You could genuinely do an entire weekly shop with food produced in this one small village.

Beyond the essentials, they’ve thought of everything - there’s a rotisserie chicken station, a Post Office counter, and even washing machines outside. And if that wasn’t impressive enough, on Fridays, they sell fresh fish straight from the Mediterranean. Place your order the day before, and the owner will head to the fish market in Carro, near Marseille, at the crack of dawn to bring back the best catch. Now that’s service.

I may be going on about this little shop, but it’s because places like these are the soul of a village. Whether in France or the UK, local shops matter. They are the heartbeat of their communities, and they deserve our support. So whenever you can, choose to shop locally - whether at a village shop in Provence or a small independent business near you.

While Saint-Martin-de-Castillon is usually quiet and peaceful, summer is when the village truly comes to life. Every year, locals gather for lively village parties, with a big communal feast, plenty of local wine, and a concert on the village square. If you happen to be in the area, don’t miss out on them!

You know how much we love exploring chapels and churches. Well, Saint-Martin-de-Castillon has fewer than 1,000 inhabitants, yet it boasts at least five chapels and churches (that we know of!). The Church of the Assumption, rebuilt in 1820 in the Romanesque style, features a 16th-century carved wooden Christ and altar canons by Pertus. Then there’s the Chapel of the Pénitents Blancs, once part of the old castle, with its Romanesque doorway; the Chapel of Saint-Placide, built in 1720 after a plague and now partially in ruins; the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Courennes, restored in the 19th century; and another 19th-century chapel in the village centre. While opening times vary, especially outside summer, these chapels add to the village’s quiet charm and rich history.

Nestled in a beautiful, unspoilt part of the Luberon, far from the tourist crowds, Saint-Martin-de-Castillon offers a tranquil escape. Just a short drive away, you’ll find Viens and Caseneuve, two other charming villages worth exploring.

The surrounding countryside is adorned with lavender fields, especially at the base of the village hill and between Saint-Martin-de-Castillon and its neighbouring villages like Viens and Caseneuve. These vibrant purple fields not only enhance the scenic beauty but also fill the air with a soothing fragrance, offering a sensory delight during the blooming season.

If you’re in the mood for a bit of adventure, head to the Gorges d’Oppedette. This stunning canyon offers breathtaking walks with spectacular views, making it a must-visit for nature lovers. The landscape here feels untouched, wild, and utterly peaceful - a reminder of how tranquil and hidden away this corner of Provence really is.

So, if you're looking for an authentic slice of rural Provence, away from the crowds, Saint-Martin-de-Castillon and its surroundings are well worth a visit.

Drone view of Saint-Martin-de-Castillon (credit: leluberon.com)